LIVING IN A BOX

There are plenty of Fashion Week moments, trends and moods swirling in my head, all so ready to escape that they‘d come out of my ears if I let them. I’ll compile a rundown of my new favourite things very soon, so stay alert. But even before I ventured into the all consuming style vaccum that is Fashion Week, I had all things box-related on my mind. Obviously, there’s no escaping the new London club phenom, The Box. I almost feel like I'd rather not go and avoid disappointment. Then there’s my new pink Miu Miu shoe box  that although has pride of place in my shoe mountain, it cannot be opened, for inside are sandals, and now is not the time for such daringly open footwear. So all I do is look at the box and count the hour… And then, there’s the boxy tee. Not boxing tees, that sounds like far too energetically sports-luxe for me to partake in. No, I’m talking t-shirts with structure; unfitted, oversized and somewhat rigid. I’ve had this inkling that it’s a shape of the future. And in the same way that we’d never have accepted peg-leg trousers straight away, these silhouettes always start somewhere - even if it’s one (or two) steps removed - and then slowly but surely seep into our fashion pschye. Luxe t-shirts are an integral part of the current season: working as a clever buffer to evening wear as day wear, which has become one of this season‘s most noticeable styling shifts (mostly thanks Raf Simons' high/low vision for Jil Sander). So of course, my ears pricked up whilst at London Fashion Week’s autumn/winter’11 shows when cocktail gown queen, Roksanda Illincic, assembled a molten silver satin bias cut maxi with an oversized tee - realised in what looked like stiff grey tailoring felt. Unexpected, right? Take it back a year and this skirt would’ve surely have been a full gown or paired with an equally silky, dressy blouse. But, wait, I actually remember boxy tees from seasons past. And after a little catwalk investigatory wok (go go gadget arms), I noticed that the box-tee has in fact been a bit of a slow burner on what’s a usually fast-to-ignite runway. This is my favourite type of trend. The ones you don’t jump on straight away, the ones that other people easily overlook, the ones that make you look fresh without anyone really knowing why. And when in the midst of a very different fashion movement in which individual style has become less about mega-snap-em-up-trends and more about a beautiful progression (whether minimalist or maximalist) these are the kind of tricks I’ll be turning out.

A LITTLE BIT IRONIC

Isn't it funny how a fur stole can become one of the most coveted items of Spring/Summer? Proves the power of Miuccia Prada once again! Will we still be sweating away in them come July? I'll do it if you will.
P.S. SO happy this now comes in a faux fur version.

Rihanna in S&M video.
Shala Monroque ('mazing blog, click it)
Great Anna Dello Russo via Jak & Jil.

GRAZIA - THE BIG FASHION ISSUE

In honour of London Fashion Week, Grazia's BIG FASHION ISSUE is OUT! (Well it's been on the newstands since Tues, but I've been too busy to post this and if you've got your head screwed on, you'll have your issue already anyway, riiiiight?) It's packed with A-MA-ZING fashion shoots, shopping specials, news and features like this one that I so lovingly put together. A gazillion emails, phonecalls, sweat (and some tears when the hard drive crashed with all the images lost - SUPERSIZE EEKS for 24 hours until they were retrieved), plus many early mornings later (thank you ladies for letting me into your homes and wardrobes at such ungodly hours...) and the result is this. Five of the fash pack's leading style arbiters unveiling their fashion week wardrobes. Buying Director extraordinaire, Holli Rogers of Net-A-Porter (who has officially made the whole office raging with Theysken's Theory jealousy!!), along with up and coming model Tali Lennox (yes, she is the daughter of the one and only Annie and signed to mega agency Next Models), beautiful and brilliantly bonkers blogger, stylist and creative whizz Gala Gonzalez of Am-Lul's closet, Grazia's very own gawgeous Shopping Editor, Sophie Ferguson Jones, and the super talented PR Sara Byworth of Relative MO, revealed their must-haves, styling tricks and all-time favourite pieces to me. These be-a-utiful photographs were taken by Phill Taylor around Londontown and boy, did he do a good job, or WHAT? Enjoy and be sure to check the latest LFW Grazia goings-on at Graziadaily.co.uk

TAKE A PICTURE, WHAT DO YOU SEE?

 

Self portraiture is having a fashion moment. Yes, it must be flattering to be requested your portrait. I wouldn’t know. * BIG time hints*. But, seriously, who needs someone else? Surely you can make yourself look your absolute best (unless you’re the riddled-with-self-loathing artistic type, then the self portrait is more cathartic or, perhaps, punishing). I doubt that the Lookbook.nu generation (if they aren’t taking the photos oh-so-flatteringly of themselves - from above, hazy vintage colour processing, etc…) haven't been stumbled upon by roving street style photographers who just happened to notice them strolling around in minus three degrees in their latest purchase - a casual pneumonia-encouraging chiffon maxi dress. No, the self portrait can be a calculated style statement and no more so than right now, where spring fashion editorials and campaigns are capitalising on our narcissistic nature. Ironic when you take a second to think about the general public’s self confessed state during these early months of the year - talk about feeling sluggish!

Throughout history, portraits - whether self-obsessed or not - have acted as an indication of wealth, status, sexual allure, intelligence etc. In fact, the very instant mirrors were invented, the self portrait was born. The self portrait isn’t as honestly representative as a mirror, but a projected desire instead. Oh, we’re a self-adoring bunch (just think of the vain people who photoshop their Facebook pics!) - fashion industry or not. I’ve long been fascinated by fashion photographers who include themselves within their work (Terry Richardson springs to mind!) - are these really self portraits masquerading as a fashion image of a model?

In 2006, Elle Muliarchyk became the first ‘guerilla model’, targeting the most elite stores, only to try on clothes for the purpose of capturing shots of herself in the changing room - and beautifully executed they are, when one considers the restrictions of time, space and the obvious lack of a photo-shoot crew! Another model, Israel based Yulia Gorodinski, has also built her career on her, um, how do you say, less clothing-orientated self portaits. Look her up. Then two years ago, Topshop created a fashion photo booth, where regular girls could dress up and take pictures of themselves. A success? But of course! (It was indeed called the Helmut Newton photo machine - in homage to the photographer’s previous project with French Vogue in 1972). It’s a trend that just keeps growing, and more recently, you’ll notice that the camera itself featured as an integral part of composition - with shoots relying on the models to take the pictures themselves with cable release shutters. Ladies in control? That's what I like to hear. “You will decide when to stop, the entire responsibility is with you,” Newton said to the volunteer models on entering the original booth. After all, who knows your best side better than you? Here you'll see Julia Restoin Roitfeld shooting herself in Tom Ford's greatly anticipated first collection - for her interview with the designer in V Magazine. Another noteworthy mention must go to Singles Korea Feb 2011 issue, with a shoot simply titled - Self Portrait. (!)

MAXI/SLASH/MINI

*Insert living under rock joke here* and state obvious fact that maxi-length hemlines (whether skirts, trousers or dresses) are going nowhere for spring. You know already that throughout 2010 skirts dropped to greater extents than the hippy skirts confused wardrobes spurt out each summer. The midi has been radically lifted from fashion-famine-frumpstown, to an award winning style status where every girl and their dog keep American Apparel’s double chiffon versions close at hand for those special midi-moments (I’m not exempt from this.) And if they you aren’t swishing around in one them this very minute, it’s only a matter of time. Those skirts are too damn versatile to ignore. For this coming spring/summer season ball gowns have been taken from the night and into the day with a simple slinging on of a casual knit or crisp white t-shirt. And even body con still clings onto a place in this world with jersey tubes stretching down to tickle one’s ankles. But don’t be fooled by all this maximising, because super-minis will not be easily beaten by their counterparts with extra bolts of fabrics. Micro minis will soon be bursting back onto the scene in their teeny-weeny droves - and most commonly in the form of the skater.

So it looks likes two tribes will be going to war and for those of us who aren’t inclined to choose just one camp then take this side for inspiration instead - the side split. Yes, there’s still some *MAJOR* leg toning to do before I can even consider trying such a raunchy silhouette, but there’s no avoiding it‘s arrival on the catwalks. It brings out your inner sex goddess (conjuring up the image of Marilyn and Jane in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes) even if you didn‘t know you had one. You certainly can’t walk around like a hunched old bag of spanners and spuds in a split hem - instant va-va-voom-age and wiggle will happen. Snaaap! And before you think it’s the side-split prerequisite to be a super starlet with many a red carpet to walk, please think again. Whilst Angelina Jolie types will rely on such a style for movie premieres, these dresses shouldn’t be restricted to after-dark schedules. Choose a split frock with a covered up, longer sleeved top like Elie Saab, Valentino or Louis Vuitton or a layered sheer version like the stunning black gown Ines de la Fressange so elegantly modelled at Chanel - and you’re onto a very special summers day look. I’ve selected some of the more casual options in my collage above. Maybe, if you are feeling bold, you could even give one a whirl with hosiery or OTK socks to flash just a teasing slice of thigh. Perhaps I’m getting ahead of myself thinking about ultimate BBQ attire, but this, would surely skewer the competition!

Fruit print dress, Stella McCartney
Peach gown, Elie Saab
Red frill front maxi, Valentino

FRILL SEEKER

Super flamenco frills + lace up ankles boots + hoop earrings = a strong spring look courtesy of Donna Summer's 'I Feel Love' record cover. Ta Donna.

BEAU BANGLES

Yes, it’s a total ball ache to wear bangles in the winter. Coat sleeves are never roomy enough to accommodate thus leaving you with a limited blood supply. Quite a problem. And bracelets never look great over knitwear either.Even more of a problem. Oh, the tribulations of following the latest trends! See Prada’s fantastic Resort collection and in one swoop you’ll drop your earrings, necklaces and headbands, bag some bangles and maybe even shed the cold weather layers for the pure satisfaction of freely jangling these beauties around. Plastic are the most fantastic, in bold primary shades or acid brights and I’ll be searching for vintage Bakelite versions on eBay too. For inspiration, who else but British writer Nancy Cunard could demonstrate so masterfully how to virtually disable yourself from normal functioning by piling ‘em up to your armpits. Seriously though, who needs to work through their January blues anyway? Bangles will make the world a far happier place!

Images:
Rihanna wearing African bangles
Nancy Cunard
Ashley Smith modelling Prada’s Resort 2011 collection.

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ORIENT EXPRESS

WAYHEY! I HAVE AN INTERNET CONNECTION! Out of 2010’s dark age and into the cable-hooked-up bright lights of 2011. Regular blogging can recommence.

Safe for a few ski stories and cold-weather-friendly trends I can really sink my teeth into spring/summer’s fast approaching trends right now. The Grazia fashion team are gearing up for a very exciting season. It’s almost here and every retailer from Topshop to Net-A-Porter are ringing in the new year with their own outline predictions of the hottest soon-to-be trends. There are, of course, a truck load that I want to share with you, but lets take one trend at a time…

Well over six months ago - before the shows - I had an inkling that an oriental influence would sprinkle the spring catwalks. During a vintage shopping spree in Brighton my usual attraction to brown skirt suits subsided and I was lured in to stroke rails of silky floral kimonos, demure mandarin collared dresses and embroidered satin jackets in jewel colours. Still not accustomed to my iPhone camera, I took some truly rubbish pictures (of which I won’t share) and just a few months later, lo and behold!, mega designers like Marc Jacobs were plunging the luxuriously indulgent Orient for inspiration too. Chinese and Japanese inspired fashions haven’t been popular in quite some time (I’m pretty sure I had a fake *cheap* Cheongsam in the mid nineties that has looked naff ever since) but with a major 1970s YSL glamour-streak running through most major collections (and Monsieur did make the Orient rather popular during that decade), this hit of style opium feels just right for a decadent backlash against all the camel, simple and classic things that have ruled the fashion roost this past year. (Can I do a secret yippee please? Camel will never suit my yellowy skin tone!)

Top of my shopping list?

Vintage kimono from a specialist market stall holder in Camden Passage (wish I knew the name of the place, sorry)
Wooden heeled chunky wedges (Japanese inspired but I’ll need a pair that are easier to walk in. No one likes a shuffling fashion girl)
A big flower to slip into my hair for nights out (think Bianca Jagger)
Winter Kate kimono jacket (these have been mega sellers for the likes of My-Wardrobe.com over the past year already!)

Images L-R:
Vintage YSL Opium advert
Karlie Kloss modelling Louis Vuitton S/S’11
Red Chinese brocade
Sigred Agren modelling Louis Vuitton S/S’11
Vintage picture of a Cheongsam
Full length and close up of a market stall holder at Vintage At Goodwood festival - for which I did a Grazia Style Hunter special with photographer Phill Taylor.

LOVE-LY TO BE BACK

Oh, it’s been too long hasn’t it? What with two house moves, multiple work trips, a work schedule to not be reckoned with, lots of fun in between and a rather unfair dismissal of my laptop (well, the current household doesn’t even have that modern thing - an internet connection) it’s been tricky to keep up this blogging lark. BIG respect to those daily bloggers out there, I truly don’t know how you do it and do it so well.

So my head is all muddled and kerfuffled. I’m still very much at the beginning of autumn/winter ‘10 for my Grazia pages, but with a constant stream of emails about Xmas gifts and my immediate concentration on the catwalk shows for spring/summer ‘11. I’ve personally launched into tights and knitwear mode, but can’t wait to try out next summer’s seventies sunray  pleat dresses and ultra brights too. The confusion! The psychotic wardrobe choices! So I thought I’d reboot with a focus on what’s inspiring me in the present, irrelevant of the season. And first up - Chloé’s feel good commerical for the new fragrance Love. Featuring (the ever gorgeous) Raquel Zimmerman being all bouncy, skippy and fabulous in her camel flares (the most coveted trousers of the season, no?) it has a total ring of Revlon’s retro Charlie Girl about it. The iconic print ads and commericials from the 1970s of Charlie perfume’s business-gal-with-equal-rights-in-the-workplace/has a gorgeous-beau-and-probably-great-cooking-skills-too has been referenced in almost every fashion magazine recently. It’s all about skipping through the city in a three piece suit, blow out curls and a pussy bow blouse (I‘m trying it, but you definitely need a little extra height to carry off high waisted flares. Note to self: aim for minimal tube travelling - flares get all caught up at rush hour!). Parisian fashion house Chloé first launched an eponymous perfume in the 1970s under the helm of Karl Lagerfeld. It’s strange to think that once upon a time the concept of buying or creating a designer perfume was so radically new and different. For more perfume related facts it’d be a darn good idea to check out the exhibition, The Perfume Diaries, curated by expert perfumer Roja Dove at Harrods. Fragrance is obviously having a moment (it is recession proof after all) and so I’m re-evaluating which spritz will get me through the winter. I’ve been a Gucci ‘Gucci’ girl since that launched with a more Donna Summer '70s vibe a few years ago…

If you haven’t seen Chloé’s latest ad, check it out here and contrast and compare with some retro commericials below.


1979 Shelley Hack wearing Charlie. Hannah MacGibbon recently wore a white blouse with a black neck tie so incredibly similar to Shelley’s. I think it’s certainly a trend to keep a look out for - Urban Outfitters have a great version by Pins and Needles.


1973 Charlie ad:

TEEN ANGST

On an whim, I decided to see a couple of live band’s at my friends ultra cool work events space in Spitalfields last week (on a school night no less!), I never expected to find anything more inspirational than the usual Shoreditch-y crowd. WOW, was I wrong. A band called Teenagers In Tokyo rocked up (four gorgeous beer swigging girls and one rather beard-savvy young gent of a drum player) and I fell in love. The lead singer Samantha Lim was mesmerising. It was the first time in my life I’ve ever felt like I actually wanted to be someone else so badly, that I could’ve just followed her around all evening, left my home, job and life behind to dedicate myself my future to being her not-so-cool-but-unshakeable shadow. And I could’ve punched myself in the head for not having a camera on me. Sorry. So I had to find out more. She was like a gorgeous Asian version of a dreamy Donna Summer, but with a bowl haircut to rival Karen O’s and a fierce scream that could give Skin a run for her money too. Wearing an white asymmetric Halston-like dress with super high platform mary-janes and a gold Mawi necklace, Samantha made it feel more like Studio 54. The 1970s (my favourite fashion epoch) are set to  be the decade of inspiration for next Autumn/Winter’s collections and I cannot wait to see these looks develop on the street and in to the stores. I will keep you posted and be trying out some of my own seventies looks very soon…

Check out their vid for Peter Pan here:

MEET MARLIES

 Marlies Dekkers - remember that name. I first was introduced to Dutch fashion designer Marlies Dekkers’ work during one of my ever press events as an intern at Grazia, back in ye olden days. Her speciality - superbly sexy, directional yet perfectly manufactured lingerie- tickled my fancy from the off. I’m a sucker for really statement underwear, so all these years later, I’m pleased to see that Dekkers is getting stronger and stronger by the season and that my taste in undies is now so popularly shared amongst such stylish greats at Gaga, Rihanna, Dita and Carrie Bradshaw. They’ve all been decked out in Dekkers recently - there’s at least one email a day from Marlies' PR department regarding a new celebrity wearer. The most popular pieces appear to be the bras with the extra straps that hit just above the cups from Marlies’ Undressed collection - they’re a sure fire route to subtly mastering the underwear as outerwear trend when teamed under a vest or dress. And they don’t half make you look great. Be sure to check out her website here.

I WISH TODAY COULD BE....

... but instead, the rain won't cease. And Victoria Park's canal is reminiscent of a scene out of impoverished East London circa Oliver. Oh for the sun to return and life to be a John Singer Sargent painting.

THEDA'S THEATRICS

Theda Bara, American silent film actress from the turn of last century. Where words are unaccounted for, how better to express oneself than through the wonderful medium of, yes, you know it well, fashion. And what Bara may had to have lacked in sound, she made up for in accessorising. (Is it just me or is there a very Olsen feel about the dark eyes glaring out of a decorative head dress?) As one of the screen’s first ever sex symbols with an intimidating penchant for barely there costumes and a tendency to play the most fatale of femmes, it was inevitable that the role of Cleopatra would be one of Theda’s best loved characters. Her piled on accessories and little more than a transparent dress (the likes of which were later banned in 1930s Hollywood films) made me think about this season’s abundance of sheer, soft and sensual fabrics and how to wear them without looking like you’ve stepped out in your nightie or rolled around in so many layers of tulle that you‘d be better suited to a tween pageant than a catwalk. With lashings and lashings of jewellery, a dashing head-dress or two and plenty of dramatic vampy makeup (Theda’s nickname was ‘The Vamp’) there’s no way you can look like you’ve just dragged yourself out of bed to grab a pint of milk from yer local corner-shop. Well, unless you had a really fantastically liberated time the night before and hadn’t quite got around to changing yet….

IN THE RED

If you paid attention to one of my previous posts regarding the ever-so-trendy London Fields and my rebellious red on red combination of blood red top and fire-truck COS pants (rather than the usual denim hotpanted and leather jackted get up), then this next idea will make sense. (And if you didn’t, wise up and read it here fool (said in Mr T voice)).

I’ve always worn a lot of red. There was a phase where orange prevailed (2005), but now red and all of it’s vibrant yet contradictory connotations - (is it aggression or passion? Love or hate?) - is back on my fashion agenda. Whilst researching I found not only the red on red trouser suit that reignited my interest in the fiery hue a year ago (it’s Bottega Veneta Resort 2010 - the one Penelope Cruz so bravely wore against a red carpet and styled with a red top too) but images of everyone from Santa to Elvis to Sarah Palin to Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby firecrackered their way out of the internet. And for each of them (except Elvis, soz) the red suit, whether skirt or trouser always creates a fierce, memorable and assertive sartorial choice. Hell, even Spiderman agrees with me. No one wearing a red trouser suit will be walked over. Simple as it sounds, putting bright red separates together is more complex than sexily slinking into a scarlet red cocktail dress (mathemagicians stop laughing). We all know a perfectly fitting but refined and un-slutty red frock can do wonders for even the shyest and most super-glued of wall flowers. But The Little Red Suit, (yes, that naturally will now be abbreviated to LRS despite sounding like a tax consultancy firm)… opens you to more fashion forward stylings - you can combine varying shades or go for a stunning block on block approach, a la Penelope or Janice Dickinson as pictured. And with head to toe red you can even match accessories - I can’t imagine any other colour that you could apply this rule too… Lime green pant suit and heels? Um, no thanks.

Images left to right:
Dior advert
Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby
Paul Robert’s painting The Red Suit
Guy Bourdin advert for Charles Jourdan
Janice Dickinson
Penelope Cruz